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In March of 2019, I traveled to the Indian states of Assam and Meghalaya to experience the people, culture, history, and food of northeast India. I was blown away by what I found there. This area of the country has a completely different look and feel to other parts of India. The culture is very unique and the food is unlike any I’ve had anywhere else. I’m excited to share my adventures there with you. Come along with me as I explore Assam and Meghalaya!
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After making the 2.5 hour drive from Shillong to Cherrapunjee, my friend Paul and I headed to a local market to explore have an incredible Khasi lunch. There were fruits and vegetables as far as the eye could see! There were vendors selling fish, massive bottles of raw honey, and so much more.
I tried some nuts that a local woman gave me. They were really good! Most of the things from the market come from outside the Cherrapunjee, or Sohra, area. There were so many things to see on our way to the meat market, including breads, samosas, and a huge amount of tobacco!
The meat market is a sensory overload. There are so many smells and sounds. It’s a little raw and intense to watch the vendors butcher the pork, but it’s real and is a part of everyday life here. You can get every part of the pig here: the heart, liver, ribs, intestines, pork belly, and much more. The abundance of pork here is part of what makes Meghalaya so different from other Indian states.
Because there aren’t many Hindu locals in this part of India, they also eat beef here. Most of the people are Christians or Catholics. Then we passed through the fish market, where I saw an interesting-looking eel, and the beef and poultry market. Everything was super fresh! Nothing here really frozen.
We saw lots of beef cattle on our way to Cherrapunjee, so the beef in the market is local and is raised in the area. It looked phenomenal! It was starting to rain, so Paul showed me a traditional rain cover as well as some locally-made bamboo mats.
I was starving, so we went to get some food next! It all looked amazing! The open-air restaurant was small and charming and I got several different things.
I started with some dense pork liver with a light sauce on it and followed it with jadoh snam, a rice and pork dish that’s cooked in blood. I couldn’t taste the blood, but it was juicy and fatty and I loved it! The pork fritter was super dense and crispy and tasty. Then I went with the pork fat, which was dense and gelatinous and had a flavorful curry on it. It reminded me of pork belly!
The pork salad was phenomenal, as was the fermented fish chutney. Then I went with the potatoes, green beans, and onions, which was incredible. Then I tried a chili and got some more liver! I capped off the meal with some minty red tea. This was one of my favorite meals of my life! The pork was so fresh and flavorful and blows American pork dishes out of the water. And it only cost 90 rupees/$1.29 U.S.
Back in the market, we saw a stall selling lots of biscuits and other breads. Then we left the market and drove 45 minutes away to see the famous living root bridges of Meghalaya! After you get there, you have to hike another 45 minutes to see them.
We rode down a windy, rocky road through a canyon and finally arrived there. We bought sticks for 20 rupees each to help us down the path. I ran down the path’s stairs to cut down the time.
We crossed a scary suspension bridge and still had so much more to go! We crossed a second bridge and finally reached the living root bridge! It’s made of intertwined tree roots and is gorgeous! We passed through the village and made our way to the double-decker root bridge. It’s made of the roots of a huge banyan tree. It’s unbelievable! You can’t see this anywhere else in the world!
I hope you enjoyed coming along with me for my Khasi lunch and to see the living root bridges! If you did, please give it a thumbs up and leave me a comment. Also please subscribe to my channel so you don’t miss out on any of my upcoming travel/food adventures!
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